PIGMENTS PERPÉTUELS : UNE ÉTUDE DE CAS VISUELLE
At
The 13th thBiennale Internationale Design Saint-Étienne, France.
“Resource(s), foreshadowing Tomorrow”.

1. THE CONTEXT AND BACKGROUND OF THE PROJECT
Every year, the world produces 92 million tonnes of textile waste. In Australia, Sustainability Victoria reports that the average Victorian generates 28 kilograms of textile waste annually. That’s more than 100 t-shirts per person—or roughly one every 2.5 days. It’s estimated that 95% of clothing sent to landfill could be reused or recycled, yet only 7% is currently recycled. Beyond filling up landfill, textiles also consume 98 million tonnes of non-renewable resources globally each year—such as oil for synthetic fibres, fertilisers for cotton farming, and chemicals for dyeing.
Researchers at Deakin University’s Institute for Frontier Materials (IFM) develop a process to extract pigments from discarded textiles and fabrics made from natural fibres. With support from Sustainability Victoria and State Government funding, IFM successfully creates an innovative method for recycling colour pigments from textile waste. The project builds on an initial concept that won the H&M Foundation Global Change Award in 2017.
Recycling textile waste is challenging due to mixed materials and varied colours, but IFM overcomes this by extracting micro pigments from colour-sorted textiles. These pigments have multiple uses, including textile printing, vegan leather production, and artistic applications.
Associate Professor Rangam Rajkhowa, a leading textile recycling expert at Deakin, pioneers a technique that physically grinds textile waste into a fine powder repurposed as pigment.
“We’re taking lower-end textile waste that would otherwise be unrecyclable and applying green chemistry to break it down into usable particles. Our approach minimizes energy and resource use, making it a truly sustainable process where nothing is wasted. One kilogram of textile waste produces one kilogram of pigment.”
(Rajkhowa, Sustainability Victoria, 2023)
IFM researchers refine this method by engineering microparticles that retain the original textile colours. Using both dry and wet grinding, they optimise the size, shape, and cohesion of particles to allow for precision printing, consistent colour, and compatibility with screen printing, spray application, and brush painting.

2. THE SPECIFIC CHARACTERISTICS OF THE COLOUR PIGMENTS
The pigments are 100% recycled textiles. Specific characteristics remain guarded due to intellectual property and commercialisation opportunities.

3. APPLICATION OF THE PERPETUAL PIGMENT
Building on their pigment innovations, IFM researchers approached design academics from Deakin University’s School of Communication and Creative Arts with the coloured powder, inviting them to explore and test potential applications. This prompt initiated a broader conversation—one that contextualises textile waste and environmental impact within wider socio-political dialogues.
The collaboration employed design thinking, guided by the principles of the Australian and International Indigenous Design Charters (AIDC & IIDC), to explore the theme: “Sustainable Colour – Continuous Culture.” Eminent Australian First Nations artists joined the project, experimenting with the recycled fibre pigments through painting, drawing, and screen-printed textiles. Two paintings created using these pigments are featured in the exhibition. These works, by Dr Jenny Murray-Jones (Yorta Yorta – Baraparapa), reflect the landscapes of her ancestral homeland in Australia.
Rip Curl, an Australian-born, design-led company recognised globally as a trailblazer in surfing culture, fashion, and innovation, supported the Perpetual Pigments project. Their involvement enabled the team to explore the commercial potential of IFM’s research, demonstrating how circular manufacturing processes can enhance product appeal and value for environmentally conscious consumers.
Rip Curl’s collaboration was pivotal—it provided industry application for sustainable manufacturing within the broader exhibition narrative. Working alongside Australian First Nations (Gamilaroi) artist Elly Chatfield, and designer Jacinta Kay, Rip Curl produced a range of T-shirt designs, screen printed with IFM’s recycled pigments. These garments are displayed in the exhibition as tangible examples of applied innovation.

4. LOOKING AHEAD
The future for Perpetual Pigments is bright. In May 2025, the project was awarded a 500K grant from the Australian Government to commercialise the pigment into paint applications. This process is now underway.
For more information – Associate Professor Rangham Rajkhowa Project lead for IFM rangham.rajkhowa@deakin.edu.au or Dr Tonya Meyrick, Lead Project Designer. t.meyrick@deakin.edu.au
2025 Exhibition Team
Exhibition Design for the 13th International Design Biennial
Dr Tonya Meyrick
Associate Professor Rangham Rajkhowa
Jacinta Kay
Dennis Ioannou
Institute for Frontier Materials
Dr Surya Subianto
Associate Professor Alessandra Sutti
Perpetual Pigments Project Team
Dr Russell Kennedy – Deakin University
Elly Chatfield (Gamilaroi) First Nations Artist
Dr Jenny Murray Jones (Yorta Yorta – Baraparapa) First Nations Artist
Acknowlegdements
Tracey-Lea Smith – Creative Cities Co-ordinator, City of Greater Geelong
Alban Piot – Rip Curl Australia